In Parts 1 and 2 of this series, I mentioned that the Helios-40 can be difficult to handle and that achieving accurate focus takes practice. After spending more time with the lens, I have found a few habits that make it easier to use. They may sound obvious, but they have made a real difference to my own results.
Getting started
The Helios-40 is an 85mm f/1.5 lens. At maximum aperture, the depth of field can be extremely shallow, particularly at portrait distances. Accurate focus is therefore essential. A traditional handholding rule suggests using a shutter speed at least as fast as the reciprocal of the focal length: around 1/100 second for an 85mm lens on full frame. Treat this only as a starting point. Sensor resolution, camera movement, subject movement and stabilisation all affect the shutter speed you need. On an APS-C camera, the crop factor also changes the equivalent guideline.
These are the shutter speeds I tend to consider when photographing people with this lens:
- 1/500 sec: Useful when there is enough light and the subject is moving quickly, such as children playing.
- 1/250 sec: A practical choice for people moving at a moderate pace, particularly when the light is less generous.
- 1/125 sec: A setting I often use for more settled portraits, provided the subject is not moving much.
- 1/100 sec or slower: Camera shake and subject movement become more noticeable. I consider using support or increasing ISO rather than relying on luck.
Using SteadyShot or in-body image stabilisation
When using a fully manual lens, the camera may not receive focal-length information electronically. On my Sony body, I therefore set the focal length manually so that SteadyShot can apply an appropriate correction. The exact procedure depends on the camera model.
When using a tripod, check the camera manufacturer’s guidance for stabilisation. Some systems detect a tripod automatically; others may behave differently. Do not assume that every camera needs stabilisation disabled in every tripod situation.
Use a lens hood
A hood can help reduce flare and veiling glare. The unusual 66mm filter size makes accessories less straightforward to find, and I have seen some rather improvised solutions. A properly made 66–67mm step-up ring can allow the use of compatible 67mm accessories, including a suitable hood. Check the thread and clearance on your particular lens before fitting anything.
Be careful with backlighting
Backlighting can be difficult with this lens, particularly without a hood. I often avoid pointing it directly into a strong light source because flare can make focusing and contrast harder to control. Partial backlighting is easier to manage. Look for a way to soften or hide the brightest part of the light, perhaps behind a branch or another object. A reflector can help lift the subject when needed, but it is not always necessary.
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